The sacred Islamic month of Ramadan brings with it a mosaic of practices that nourish both the spirit and the body.

While the rigours of fasting, abstinence and reflection are intrinsic to Ramadan wherever it is observed, the tradition of iftar – the dinner of breaking the fast after sunset that marks the end of each daylong cycle – varies depending on which part of the world one is from.

For the Hausa people of Nigeria, Niger and Ghana and those in the diaspora, the iftar table is a confluence of culture, heritage and cuisine steeped in tradition.

At the heart of these iftar gatherings lies a beloved pairing – Kunu and Kosai – that has tickled the tastebuds of generations, rich or poor.

Kosai, for the uninitiated, is a cake-like fritter made from mashed beans fried to crispy perfection and usually eaten with a vegetable sauce or a dash of spicy, powdered seasoning mix.

Kunu, the other half of this culinary tradition, is a gruel made from millet, sorghum, rice or wheat cornmeal with the added taste of spices, tamarind, or peanuts.

Kunu and Kosai, or another variant, Koko and Kosai (also called Kose or Akara), offer a balanced iftar meal while reflecting the region's cultural and religious heritage.

A typical Hausa traditional iftar meal spread could consist of other items, but they all come usually after Kunu and Kosai.

Torchbearers of tradition

Members of a typical Hausa household grow up seeing their parents preparing Kunu and Kosai for breakfast, which is a tradition passed down to generations.

The ingredients for Kunun Tsamiya, the most common Kunu variants, are few and simple to source. The base is made from cornmeal mixed with warm water.

Powdered spicy condiments such as ginger, cloves or black pepper may be added to the watery mixture before the filtered juice of tamarind is blended into the solution.

The next step is to pour water at boiling point into the mixture until it attains a thick consistency. Depending on your preference, more hot water can be poured to control the texture. Sugar and sometimes milk are added for taste.

In the Hausa community, during iftar, once the fast is broken with date fruits as recommended by Islam, Kunu is typically the first item on the table, often served as a hot appetiser. Beyond Ramadan, it is usually served to guests as a gesture of welcome and hospitality.

Packed with nutrition

Hot or warm, Kunu is popular among the old and young alike within the extended Hausa community both for its taste and the instant rush of energy it provides.

Since the primary ingredients are tropical grains like millet, which the United Nations categorises as a superfood, there are many benefits to consuming Kunu.

For people living with diabetes, millet is a boon because of its low glycaemic index without compromising on protein and fibre.

According to nutritionists, Kunu helps digestion and improves gut health, especially when made from millet or sorghum. The goodness of minerals like iron, calcium and magnesium are a bonus.

From the tamarind additives, one gets B vitamins, which are essential for hydration and energy.

Traditionally, some types of Kunu are believed to enhance milk production in lactating mothers.

Sachets of instant Kunu mixture are widely available in Nigerian markets and contain a mix of millet, tamarind, and spices. It's easy to prepare a cup of Kunu by just pouring hot water into the prepared mixture.

Taste of Hausa country

The traditional ingredients for making Kosai include black-eyed cowpea, white and red beans or honey bean varieties, all of which are popular legumes in West Africa.

The beans are soaked in warm water for hours before being dehulled. The seed coat is then washed off.

The beans may be air-dried or directly put into a blender until they pulse into a smooth consistency.

Fresh vegetables, including onions, bell or long pepper, chilli pepper or garlic, go into the mixture. Salt and seasoning are added, while some may put a drizzle of palm oil for colouring.

To make fluffy Kosai, the paste is whisked in a bowl for a few minutes. It may also be garnished with egg, fish, meat, and diced onions.

Kosai is fried in hot vegetable oil, traditionally in a stir-fry pan. Using a long spoon or ladle, the paste is put drop by drop into the sizzling fat. When one side browns, it is turned over for an even frying.

Well-rounded snack

Kosai is best served fresh from the pan, sometimes as a side dish.

The beans used in Kosai are a good source of iron and folate, while legumes are counted among the best plant-based protein.

During iftar, its crispiness and taste conjure magic on the palate after a long day of fasting. No wonder in many parts of West Africa, an iftar meal is considered incomplete without a bite of Kosai.